Marvellous Montenegro (June/July 2022)

After lifting anchor it was approximately 10 minutes before we entered Montenegro waters, we had anchored on the border with Albania setting ourselves up for an early, easy (we hoped) check-in to our 25th country on Red Roo.

We had VHF contact with Bar Radio announcing our entry into their waters and were given permission to proceed to Bar – our port of entry to complete formalities around 25 nautical miles away, roughly 5 hours.

We arrived at a very quiet port of Bar, it took 4 calls on VHF before getting a response from the harbour masters office, there was no other water traffic movement, an empty customs dock (which made berthing along side very easy).  We secured the boat and presented to the customs/police building where the kind police officer had to turn on the office lights and computer to assist us,  she told us there were no boats expected today or tomorrow so things were quiet, we had picked a good day to arrive. 

Formalities were easily completed, it was a passport stamp from the Police booth, a short walk to the harbour masters office to submit crew list paperwork and of course make a payment for a cruising permit (vignette), then back to drop a copy of the paperwork with the port police again, and finally a copy to customs (the cubicle next to the police) and we were done – welcome to Montenegro.

We spent two hours in Bar, picking up a local sim card, a quick browse of the local supermarket (to check out beer and food prices) a walk around town, a beer at the bar over looking the harbour (just to make sure Montenegro beer was to our liking), then back to the boat to move onto our anchorage for the night, just 3 short nautical miles to the beach at the other side of the bay.

The following day we travelled just 12 nautical miles north to the breathtaking beautiful anchorage of Sveti Stefan.  We were particularly taken by this picture perfect location, we felt very relaxed and enjoyed 2 nights here, the beach was beautiful and only at about 30% capacity with beach goers, also there was no loud music, the water was crystal clear, it was just lovely.  We also enjoyed a walk along the foreshore to Kings Beach and Queens Beach in the next two northern bays.

To give you an idea of the size of the country, Tasmania is 5 times bigger than the country of Montenegro.  Tasmania = 68,401 km2 & Montenegro = 13,812 km2.  Montenegro’s population is larger at 628,223 and Tasmania’s being just 526,386.

Next stop was 4 nautical miles north (it’s a small country), to the bigger town of Budva.  Here was a bit of a highlight as we actually went to the movies and saw Top Gun Maverick, there was just 4 of us in the cinema (us and Kevin & Dee from the boat “Kestral” (UK) whom we had met in Albania.  We also enjoyed walking around the old fortified town both during the day and after dark.

Next hop was 13 nautical miles to a larger bay, which contained a smaller bay with a small beach in which we dropped the anchor and swam, walked, brought ice-cream and generally relaxed.

Two days later we made the 16 nautical mile passage north and entered the Bay of Kotor.  We were impressed!  Gorgeous mountains right down to the water, submarine caves along the foreshore, green trees, it was really beautiful.  We didn’t head straight for the main town of Kator but for a smaller town in the south eastern arm of the inlet near Tivat (due to winds forecast and looking for a protected anchorage). As we circled around the anchorage looking for a spot to drop the hook we were hailed “Are you Red Roo, the Aussies?” it was a couple of fellow Aussies on their catamaran “Gumtrees” who follow us on social media and were excited to see us.  Naturally drinks followed later that evening. Pictured below are some sites from Tivat, including drinks we had one lunch time in town where the soft drink (coke) was more expensive than beer, Phil declared this a great country!

We motored around further into the bay to actually anchor outside the walled town of Kotor. The small journey was visually very beautiful, we passed many small islands in the water only accessible via boat, made entirely of stone and beautifully maintained.

It is really only suitable to anchor right outside Kotor when the wind is quiet as when it blows it creates tremendous katabatibc winds due to the steep hills surrounding the anchorage which funnel down the huge mountains creating havoc in the anchorage.  Kotor is the main tourist town in the whole area, a gorgeous bay surrounded a small ancient walled village right on the water which immediately goes up into the steep green hills.

We were in for a few days of no wind, so set the anchor and caught up with fellow Aussies Debi & Jono off “Taka Oa” who we met in southern Greece and had arrived the day before.  They had done the research and had arranged an inland trip the following day with a car and driver, did we want to join them “yes, please”.

We climbed up and out of the ditch between the mountains and across some highlands before going both up and down, around and around again (glad I wasn’t driving) and eventually arrived at Tara River Canyon – the largest and deepest canyon in Europe.  Google tells us the canyon is 1333 meters deep. Simply breathtaking, a huge beautiful bridge crosses the expanse along with numerous zip lines whilst white water rafting goes on below, and greenery fills in all the gaps.  All four of us zip lined across the valley. Video Below.

What fun that was! 1.5 km of zipline, 1.3 km drop to the river/canyon floor travelling between 80-120 km/ph. Phil took some great pictures (featuring his feet, and I am pleased to report no thongs were lost).

Next stop was Black Lake.  The Black Lake is the largest of Durmitor National Park’s glacial lakes, known as ‘mountain eyes’. It sits at the bottom of Međed Peak and was formed by glacier action in the Pleistocene era.  The setting was again so beautiful and calming – it just felt really nice to be there.  Beautiful walks along the lake, trees, water, birds, this world is a beautiful place. 

After the lake we stopped nearby for a traditional Montenegro meal for lunch.  We tasted a variety of homemade milk cheeses as well as dried meat that they smoke for 4 months!!  Our main dish was lamb and vegetables done in a special cylinder dish over charcoal – delicious. 

The drive back was less than easy as our driver was tired and his eyes taking long blinks, we stopped, we offered to drive, and then I just constantly chatted with him asking him question after question – I was less than impressed. 

Kotor Old Town was beautiful as was the view from the top of the town, Phil walked up the steps to visit the church and take the photo.

It was time to make plans to leave Montenegro for Croatia, but looking at the weather there were strong Bora winds blowing in Croatia, so the decision was made to wait back at ‘Gumnuts’ anchorage until they finished before leaving (we named the anchorage gumnuts after the Aussie boat Gumtrees who had been anchored there for nearly 3 months).   We ended up here for a week, with a couple of nights of stronger winds but very mild and very safe compared to other places.  We enjoyed another catch up with the Gumtrees and another Aussie boat Craig & Zena on “SV Adriana I”.  The week passed quickly with both Jono and Debbi and Kevin and Dee anchored there as well.

Next stop Croatia!